From Puno we went to “Quechua Family Inn” airbnb on Lake Titicaca. The collectivo cost 4 soles and our bags rode on the roof. We got to see the countryside while listening to the local women chatting in Quechua. One talked and the other said umhmmm. The collectivo left us off in the hamlet of Capachica which was having its own version of carnival. I parked myself in the middle of the square with my big back pack, took out my camera and watched.
My attempts to chat with the villagers improved after I bought some beer to share. I chatted with this woman with filigreed silver dental work, a big skirt and even bigger laugh. Before drinking her and her friends would spill beer on the ground for Pachamama (earth goddess). The local drunk must have found out about the gringo with the free beer because “de una” (right away) he was next to me with a cup.
Capachica women wear triangular embroidered hats with folded corners and psychedelic coloured pom poms as big as matzoh balls. They are more modest than their Puno sisters. The skirts were long and lined with crinoline (no gold underwear here). Sandals replaced cha cha heels.
my drinking buddies
After a few dances we took a moto-taxi to the Inn which is about 4 km away on a dirt road down the valley to a beach area called Chifron. The moto taxi could not make it up the hill so the driver kicked us out and we walked the last hill.
We were the only guests for the first night and Walther, the host made us dinner and we listened to Salsa. It was very cold that night and Eliot wore multiple layers in order to get to sleep.
The next day we wandered around the valley between the shore and the town. When we returned to the lodge there were new guests. A french couple in their 50’s and a Spanish woman in her 60’s. We sat around the dining room table as Walther cooked. The French couple were complimenting him on the smell of the food and had to check themselves when they saw their plates with the child size portions of chicken nuggets with quinoa and rice. The Spanish woman asked for a vegetarian meal. She teased Walther ” I can smell the delicious Spanish tortilla you are making me”. You should have seen her face when she got a plate of tired looking steamed vegetables- We imagined Walther thinking “take that you daughter of the people that made my people work in the mines- Eliot and I had to suppress a laugh. We taught everyone to play golf (cards) and had a nice evening.